of the kit can be found here.
As the kit builds easily, there is actually very little to add:
manual teaches us that this will most likely be a quick-build affair
and that there are no parts to augment our spares box.
and some parts are somewhat thicker than the ICM
kit of the same vehicle, but much easier to build and a lot
cargo bed is somewhat overengineered and some parts don't fit too
well in this area. Dry fitting is the order of the day as minor
modifications to the parts are all that are needed to make them
can see through the hood from the sides, which can be easily solved
by gluing some plasticard to the interior of the hood.
locating holes for the axe on the rear of the cargo compartment
go all the way through the rear wall, which is not necessary for
the small locating pegs on the axe itself. These should be plugged
from the rear.
clear windscreen is given. It lacks the splitter frame on the driver's
side and has bolt detail on the inside, where it will be hidden
by the dashboard. It only has a frame on the outside, making painting
on the inside difficult. It's actually rather easy to fit the windshield
backwards, as I discovered.
pennant holder is rather "sturdy" for this scale.
a vehicle that saw widespread use, research into the color schemes
is rather, well, minimalistic: two identical vehicles from unidentified
units, both in gray, but with different licence plates and another
one from an unidentified unit with a whitewash. The latter requires
the formation of your own licence plates. This allows you to make
any WH or SS licence plate (in case you are building an exact replica
of a picture), but is a very fiddly affair, even more so as the
SS runes come in halves...
for the instruments are given, but not mentioned in the instructions.
shovels seem a bit too large, but shortening them is an easy affair.
of the headlights has a blackout cover with a pronounced slant.
While possible in my opinion, it looks somewhat strange.
my eye the front fenders leave too much space for the wheels. As
the wheels do not look underscale to me, the cause is more likely
the positioning of the fenders, which sit too high with respect
to the hood.
basic measurements were performed as I was lacking both in decent
references and motivation to measure every little bolt.
according to 
length (excluding towing pintle)
between rear axle
between front axle and middle of rear axles
Years later, I
decided to build the Pak 36. I mostly followed Al's
advice for his Dragon Pak 36 and replaced the spades of the outriggers
and added handlebars. Whereas Al scratchbuilt his spades, I could
use the reaonably well detailed spades of the Pak that comes with
PaK 36 auf Renault UE(f), which gives you two spare gun carriages
(if you build the kit according to the instructions.)
that the instructions
of this Dragon kit allow you to build the gun in the towed configuration,
but don't tell you te remove (or, at least, fold the bottom) of the
lower shield (part G6).
im Kriege. Die legendäre Krupp-Protze und andere. Waffen Arsenal
at War. The legendary Krupp Protze & Other Vehicles. Schiffer
Military History 53. (Basically the same book as the above.)
kit bought by author.
kits can be purchased from