Mirage Pz 4B, C, D
Edited by Marc Mercier
you want to build an early Pz4, the Pz4C-D from Mirage are the only
game in town.
The idler position is too far to the back (idler lever facing backwards) and causes a strange look. Simple counteraction: Cut the lever of idler wheel, shorten it and glue it downwards. This simple task improves the look a lot.
The engine deck is app. 2mm to short and to compensate for this there is a horizontal plate in front of the driver which was not there in reality. Fixing this one is more difficult. You have to lengthen the engine deck therefore. If you want to do it fully accurate then you have to add 1mm between turret and hatches and 1mm in length of hatches. I made a compromise. If you make a Pz4D version you have to lengthen the air intake grill also (Or use Revell/Dragon parts). For Pz4C there is a simpler solution which I will explain later.
|The hull width is a little bit undersized too. If you are not using the (thick) add on armour I recommend to add 0,25mm sheets on the sides. So you can skip plate engraving also.
block from the commander cupola is facing forward and the cupola is
too low. The hatches are also too big. I cut off the cupola part from
the turret extension, added a spacer made from the included cast idler
wheel and turned the cupola until one visor was facing forward. For
the upper end with hatches I used the spare parts from Dragons Pz4F/G
with the ring sanded down to app 0,8mm. The handles are made from
Apart from the sloppy fit of the suspension units and mould failures in return rollers, I do not like the shape of the early hubcaps on the wheels. They are moulded too flat. The wheels with medium hubcaps (for tanks >spring 1942) look better. (I used them for my Pz4C 1944 at Normandy)
about the smoke discharger: Only the later armoured version (in low
quality) is included in the kit, Pz4C and early D tank however were
equipped with the (missing) unarmoured version.
Brackets for Rommelkiste
These stowage bins were installed later and therefore they needed special brackets to fix them to the turrets. These brackets were U-shaped and were fixed with screws from the lifting hooks.
Specific parts for Pz4 C
most distinctive parts for this version are included but some have
Air inlet louvres
had different style of air inlets and these parts are included in
|A simple way to improve the situation: Change left and right louvre and install them inside out. You have to thin the ribs but the result looks better. In reality the ribs are not covering the whole intake so no need to add the missing 2mm. Just add a plate at the forward end. Enclosed picture was made during cleaning of the ribs but I guess you get the idea.
ribbed sidewalls on the mantlet are missing. I added sidewalls and
created the ribs with putty and a Zimmerit tool. My mistake: the ribbed
sideplate was welded inside the front plate. Therefore there should
be a flat border around the “Zimmerit”
One of the changes from 4C to D version was the introduction
of thicker visor covers for both turret and hull. The later version
is included in all the kits. I decided to build new doors with smaller
visors and added earlier style PE visors from an ACE Pz 2 kit to hull
and right turret side. (Left turret visor was without vision slot)
The Pz4C below was build with the improvements mentioned above, for the Pz 4D Trop (bottom of the article) I used the lower hull with running gear from Hobbyboss Kit Munitionspanzer 4D/E. This kit has at the moment the best early running gear on the market and is a good base for modifications.
Review samples purchased by the author.