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Simon Barnes (1)

Simon Barnes (2)

If you build the kit OOTB, you will get misaligned drive sprocket teeth. The left and right halves of the drive sprocket (on any given side of the tank) will not line up.

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

First releases had the old vinyl tracks; later releases unsure.

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If you build the kit OOTB, you will get misaligned drive sprocket teeth. The left and right halves of the drive sprocket (on any given side of the tank) will not line up.

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

Ian Cowley

Danilo Carli

Rob Haelterman (used in conversion to M10)

The kit has the part for the base of a Sternantenna (part 85) which is not for use. The Sternantenna is not included, but this part will help if the modeler wants to convert the vehicle to a command vehicle.

The kit has only 18 wheels, while it would need 20 (16 + 4 spare). The "old" Dragon Ausf. F1, F2, G, and H kits all have 20 wheels, but only need 18 and can serve as a donor. (Note that the new releases are different.)

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Fairly good model. Plastic hull, but with vinyl tracks.

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If you build the kit OOTB, you will get misaligned drive sprocket teeth. The left and right halves of the drive sprocket (on any given side of the tank) will not line up.

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

Rob Haelterman

Olav Hauke

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Stefano Dell'Acqua

Stephen Brezinski

Also released as  
T-34/76 Mod.1942 German Army.
Earlier releases have PE set for engine that doesn't fit the plastic part, later releases have this fixed.

Timothy Lau points out that

• Vehicle 1023 has the wrong type of turret (the kit is hard edge, the real vehicle soft edge) and lacks Swastikas.
• Vehicle 742 should have its number placed lower than in the instructions

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5 Marking options.

According to Timothy Lau the "Totenkopf" marking option is actually a vehicle from "Wiking", seen here or here and would need parts of an Ausf.F2 kit like the globular muzzle brake.

Howitzer variant of StuG III. The same comments hold as for kit 7283, of which all the parts are also included. This means you can build this kit as a StuG or StuH and with different types of front armor, which in my opinion makes this the better choice between the two kits (apart from the decals.)
Parts A24 & A25 are marked not for use, but the manual uses them nevertheless. You only get two marking options, both of unidentified units, resp. in Germany (1945) and the Ardennes (1944) - R. Haelterman

Timothy Lau points out that the decals for "132" might possibly be based on this vehicle (here and here). If so, it was not a StuH and it was not in the Ardennes and it was not an ambush scheme.

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Andy Bannister

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According to Timothy Lau the marking option for 11 Pz.Div. is questionable.
Decal 7 should be replaced with a 11 Pz.Div. divisional insignia where the ghost faces left and should be repositioned from the hull to the turret. (Note that the 11. Pz.Div. insignia always points left. )
The parallelogram in the instructions is perhaps not applicable to this vehicle.

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

If you build the kit OOTB, you will get misaligned drive sprocket teeth. The left and right halves of the drive sprocket (on any given side of the tank) will not line up.

When you mount the tracks, you will notice that the rubber band track is twisted from one set of teeth from half of the sprocket pushing the tracks outwards due to the misalignment. - Y.C. Wang

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The kit has two decal options.The decal option for vehicle "123" in this and the 1/35 kit was based on an erroneous interpretation (here and here).
-  Timothy Lau

This is the Tiger with a Panzer III bin on the rear of the turret.
These kits are not simple declinations of earlier Tiger kits, but highly improved molds, with correct asymmetric turrets, open hatches with detail on the underside, full radiator detail, a rudimentary turret interior and better detail.

DS tracks, no PE. Turret hatches can be opened. Bogies require little work thanks to slide mold technology. Three marking options: Tunis and two Dieppe, although for the latter the specific equipment for the exhausts is not provided.

Confusing instructions (e.g. wheels are "optional"). Four marking options, shown without spaced nose armor, engine grille cover or spare tyre, which are shown in the instructions and boxtop.

Timothy Lau points out that the cable mounted on the spaced nose armor is a very rare item.

The instructions are very doubtful. I suspect the builder needs to adapt the instructions from 1/35 kit 6820. There appears to be a need to use parts that aren't supposed to be used and to ignore instructions about which parts to use. For example, for the "131," you need to use the earlier two canister Feifel, which is not what the instructions tell you to install. Also, the builder should go read David Byrden's site on kit 6820 for help about the other marking instructions. David Byrden also noted to me that the hull top is of a Mid Tiger. The C-hook has to be sliced off.

-  Timothy Lau

The instructions are copies of the kit without floats (7435). If you follow them, you will be installing parts to the nose that will impede the fitting of the pontoons.
You will also need to shave off some fittings from the engine deck to make the tower fit. Overall fit is sub-optimal.

According to Timothy Lau, the tower (parts A3, A4, A13, A14) was very rarely fitted to the real vehicle.

Inside the box:
If you expect a kit similar to Dragon’s excellent PzIV Ausf. F/G kits then do not buy it. Compared with these kits a lot of details were simplified and the number of parts is reduced. There is also some flash on the sprues which is very unusual for Dragon.
Driver’s and radio operator’s hatches are molded shut in the upper hull, but still have details on the inside. The fit between the upper hull, air inlet and the new lower backplate needs some patience and filler. The lower hull with a flat bottom is from their Brummbär kit. Wheels are the well known late type while the idler is the cast version. All tools on the hull and fenders are molded on. The turret now has integrally molded side doors (with casting faults), door stoppers (which are flat to the sidewalls) and handles. The excellent early cupola from the Ausf. F/G is replaced by a 2 part late cupola with flat engraving, molded on hatch and missing shot deflector ring. The nice gun and front plate are similar to the Ausf. F/G Kit. The Rommelkiste also has an integrally molded hatch. The turret skirts are nice, the hull skirts are of the lowest quality with molded on rails and without any skirt holders around the triangles. (Why did Dragon not use their better Brummbär skirts?)
The skirts (Schürzen) are molded with the holding rail at the bottom instead of the top. To correct this mistake you have to sand down the skirts and scratchbuild a new rail.
The DS tracks were not only warped but also twisted because of inattentive packing.

Version
The missing Filzbalg Luftfilter, antenna rail and the cover for the close defense weapon date this vehicle in my opinion to (approximately) February 1944 , which is the middle of the Zimmerit period.

Historical inaccuracies
- No spare tracks at all (upper/lower hull, right sidewall, back wall and fenders) even though the box art shows a lot of them.
- Missing shot deflector on cupola
- S hooks instead of C hooks
- No towing ropes
- No skirt holders on the skirts and no hooks on the fenders as on the Stug IV/Brummbär kit.
- Close the KFF openings above driver visor
- No Zimmerit

Conclusion
In relation to the higher kit price (in Europe double the price of a Revell Pz IV) I would recommend to buy the Revell Pz4H kit instead and add some smaller details there. With the saved budget you at least have some money for one PE- or Zimmerit set.

To backdate either Revell or Dragon kit to the pre-Zimmerit area will be another story:
- rubber return roller
- angled bow plate at the back
- Schürzen early version
- earlier oval muzzle break
- mid/late hubcaps on wheels (?)
- …

- Robert Kru

It was first thought that perhaps later releases of this kit have corrected Schürzen rails, as a ready made Dragon Model (60656) can be seen with them. It seems that this is not the case. However, it is apparently selling the coorect Schürzen parts as part of kit 7551.

The ready-made 60656 is therefore based on a never-released version that represents the best of the combined 7497 and 7551.

- Timothy Lau

Stephen Brezinski

This kit has all the parts that 7439 has.

The model features decals for "Te Aroha," which, in real life, is "Te Aroha III." (There was a "Te Aroha" but the decals weren't meant to represent that one.) The builder should consult the numerous threads about the Tamiya 1/35 kit which prsents the same flaw or this link.
It should be noted that, even though both 7504 and 7439 have decals for "Te Aroha," the actual "Te Aroha III" probably was not armed with either the Lewis or the 2cm Cannon. Still, as the kit represents a radio truck and as "Te Aroha III" is the only marking option that corresponds to a radio truck, this marking is the most accurate. - Timothy Lau

The late Panther Ausf D kit is the same as the 7494 early Panther kit. The only differences are the decals provided with the kit and the assembly instructions. All the parts supplied in the box are the same, the instructions mark what to cut off to get the late D Panther.

- Piotr Pyrczak

This is not entirely correct : the wheel sprues are different. Early Panther D comes with a sprue of 16 bolts wheels, while late D comes with the 24 bolt ones for the outer wheels, the inner roadwheels (facing toward the hull) are still 16 bolts.

- Kevin Liang

Consists of 2x kit no. 7490 plus new tooling for ferry.

The kit is missing the rudder. - Timothy Lau

7549

Kit 7551 represents an earlier version of the Ausf. H than kit 7497, which puts it in direct competition against the Revell kit. Kit 7551 has the corrected rails and the air filter that kit 7497 lacks, but it does have the awful rubber wheels + tracks combo and lacks various details.
-  Timothy Lau

7553